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Guizhou Travel Guide
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Home : China Guide : Guizhou : Food of Dong Ethnic

rice planting in Dong villages, Guizhou ProvinceSince ancient times, the Dong people have traditionally dwelt in mountain river valleys where, with the help of water buffaloes, they practice cultivation in irrigated fields and along steep mountain terraces. The man are expected to sow the fields, do heavy farmwork and other labor, while the women spend much time weaving, doing housework and light gardening. During busy farm seasons the women will join in sowing and harvesting grains. In a very few districts, women do all the heavy fieldwork, while the men stay home to look after the children and do housework.

Fish ponds are scattered throughout a village. Grain is often stored on racks over these ponds, to protect precious staples staples against possible fire damage and deterrent to rats. Fish are likewise raised in flooded rice paddies.

rice harvest in Dong villages, Guizhou Province"Nuo mi" (glutinous rice) is the staple food among the Dong. In the autumn, southern Dong villages, such as in Congjiang county, are transformed to a mellow color of gold as rows and rows of towering drying racks are hung with harvested sheaves of glutinous rice. Because of its stickiness, glutinous rice can be conveniently eaten by hand, without chopsticks.

When Dong go off to the fields and mountains to work, or travel long distances in foot, they will always wear attached to their belt, a small round covered basket filled with glutinous rice. In a smaller wooden container, also tied to their belt, is a ready supply of salty hot sauce, made of smoked or pickled peppers, to accompany the rice.

On occasions like weddings, funerals and other celebrations, the most appropriate presents to give are two baskets of glutinous rice. In some areas, such as Liping, cooked glutinous rice is dyed a blue-green and given as a wedding gift. The Dong in Rongjiang and other counties prepare a special "black-rice", dyed from the leaves of a certain tree, for a festival known as "Eat Black Rice".

For special events, glutinous rice is beaten to a paste in heavy wooden or stone containers. Family members take turns with the heavy pounding. Known locally as "baba", the resultant paste is formed into round patties. After drying, they become hard as rocks and can be stored for several months if placed in a bucket of cool water, changing the water daily. Before eating, a patty is placed on red coals until it softens, becoming bubbly and golden in color. One small cake is equivalent to several bowls of rice.

The first floor of Dong's kitchen is filled with sweet fragrance as wooden barrels of rice wine are brewing. During weddings, festivals, when guests visit and for other important occasions, an abundance of wine is drunk with meals. Wine is also given as offerings to various nature spirits and to ancestors on prescribed occasions.

Dong are renowned for their spicy cured fish. Fish raised in rice-paddy fields are coated with salt and hot pepper, and kept in clay containers for several years; the resultant spicy, salty and sour fish is eaten cold or hot during arrive. Raw, pickled pork is another favorite food served at wedding celebrations.

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